Apparently there was a big meeting in BC yesterday afternoon amongst the leading teams.
Now please take everything that follows as third hand because that is what it is.
As you know the Lhotse face has a lot of rock fall on it this year (much more than in the previous four or five years). A new route has been put up to the right of the funnel and our Sherpas are up at camp three right now putting up our tents.
The problem lies in now setting the route up to the South Col where there is apparently still more stone fall than usual. The forecast is for some snow during the next three or four afternoons which may help consolidate the rock and stone fall, binding it to the ice below.
The problem is for every trip we take up the mountain the sherpas take five or six. Consequently they are at much greater risk than us. They are also not keen on this new route to the right as it is longer and harder - not something you want when carrying a heavy pack. Also the Shepas never sleep at Camp Three believing it to be bad luck and upsetting the spirits of the Gods. Consequently they go up and down each day to Camp Two or travel on to Camp Four at the South Col (which is not set up yet).
A helicopter pilot has apparently given his flying time for free to allow for photographs to be taken and studied of the upper slopes which is fantastic.
Russell Brice (who runs the Himex team) has apparently said that he will no longer be climbing on the mountain. Whether this is an immediate withdrawl or not I don't know.
The other leading teams are of the opinion that this is perhaps rather hasty given that it it still very early May.
As I've said everything above is third hand.
As of now we are pressing ahead with our Camp three rotation tomorrow morning and then a further night here at Camp Two. We will then return to BC to see what the latest news and weather forecasts are.
Right now though any summit bid wii be late May and perhaps, I must warn you not at all.
Needless to say we are all taking this news in but are confident that whatever David and Pasang decide for us it will be the right decision.
It must be so frustrating for you after all the hard work you've put in so far - but the safety of the climbers and sherpas is the first priority. I'll keep my fingers crossed that you get the snow-fall and the routes become safe.
ReplyDeleteHelen
For the record Brice is pulling his people off the mountain due to the rockfall but presently only temporarily. He thinks that Lhotse as a summit is a no go and only more snow could assist in holding the stone fall to get a line up to camp 3. He has a couple of Sherpa's injured too and thinks that their risk is the greatest, something he cares about a great deal.
ReplyDeleteFingers crossed Ian, hope the weather is not against you this time.
Klaus
Thank you Klaus,
DeleteHopefully the weather will continue steadily improving.
Kind Regards
Ian
Hi Ian
ReplyDeleteCan't begin to think how frustrating this must be for you....but fingers crossed it will work out for you and all your team. Remember 'safety first' - at all times.
Thinking of you,
Carine x
Dear Friends, This is a precarious situation. The absence of Ice at the upper Zone & exposure to more rock face was predicted by legendary Ang Shering & Apa sherpa. This situation would make the climbing very difficult & dangerous for ordinary climbers. When Sherpas are showing reluctance to go upper hill & Organiser like Russel Brice is thinking of abandoning the expedition then there is really great risks involved in the coming days. Please take careful consideration.
ReplyDeleteAsim, thank you for your comments, the icefall seems much worse than in previous years but the weather will hopefully be on our side.
DeleteKind regards
Ian