Back to Camp Two

Sleeping on the oxygen went pretty well once I got used to the cannula. I had seven hours straight sleep and woke feeling ok if a little chilly but I also felt hungry. So next time I might go on the oxygen as soon as we arrive at the Camp to see if it helps with my appetite.

As I feeling slightly cold I put on my down suit and then had a rather fitful couple of hours sleep before we woke up at 5.00 am.

I won't describe the problems here of a 'follow through' at 7100m whilst wearing a down suit, let me just say 'not pleasent'. I was too mean to give them a 'Viking burial', so they are coming down to BC.

I've already told you about the struggle getting up each morning but I've not mentioned about the daily fight I have with my high altitude double boots. It's no exaggeration to say it takes at least six to eight minutes a foot to put each boot on.

Firstly the inner boot is rather like putting on a well fitting Wellington boot as you have to inch your foot in, first your toes, then waggle the tongue a bit, back to the heel - pull, then the tongue again, finally your foot is in but you're now exhausted because of the lack of oxygen! Take a breather for a minute.

Now this is the bit I find hardest getting the inner boot into the outer.

I open the boot fully and insert my toes and all of a sudden there we have it my foot stuck at approximately 45 degrees and it won't budge. There's a small flap/toggle of outer boot insulation that now needs to be pulled tight with all the strength you can muster in your arms whilst at the same time pushing with your leg. It's not just me, watching Brett do up his boots is the same. Whoever designed these boots did so at a factory at sea level!

Finally your inner boot slips in and it's time for another breather before doing up three two inch wide Velcro tabs that hold the inner boot firmly in place. 

We left at just after six and seemed to speed down the fixed lines only needing to abseil the very final section. Most of the time I used a 'Sherpa' wrap. This is were you wrap the fixed rope once around an arm (I use my left), and you face forward and walk down the slope ensuring that your crampons are firmly planted. You are also clipped in so in theory shouldn't fall too far, well no more than 50 m!!

We made it back by 8.30am for a welcome breakfast. A far cry from the eight hours up.

David then gave us a debrief: basically most of us weren't quick enough as the next two days to the South Col and the Summit Day are longer and we wouldn't make them on the supplied oxygen. More on this tomorrow.

Also everyone's crampon front pointing technique was poor except for one person's. Ok it's hard for me to say it but it was 'moi'! Well I thought I'd end on a high point.