Tuesday 17 April 2012

2.00am wake up call

Before I tell you about today's trip through the ice fall firstly can I thank all of you who have either sent me a Tweet or an email. I do enjoy reading them. Unfortunately it's difficult to reply because as you already know there's no mobile signal at BC. I was able to pick them up as I noticed when we descended the icefall last time that at one point which is flat and also not beneath any seracs, there is a direct line of sight with Gorak Shep where the 3G mast is. It doesn't take too long to download the messages but I think David might get a bit fed up if I asked the team to wait whilst I replied!

Do check out the interactive Spot2 page as I set it off this morning.

This morning we set our alarms for 2.00am which David assures us is the earliest we will ever need to (apart from summit day). It was much windier than a couple of days ago which helped to lift the temperature by a few degrees. I also wore some warmer gloves so getting to the mess tent by 2.30 seemed a bit easier (either that or I'm getting used to the discomfort - frankly after this trip there really is no excuse to have the heating on at home).

Well you won't be surprised to learn that trip through the ice was very similar to two days ago except that we went higher.

I'm pleased to report we didn't encounter or hear a single avalanche until we were back at BC and even that was well off our route below Lho La.

At one point just before the ice steepens to circa 55 degrees I looked up and all I could see was a line of head torches criss crossing the ice much like white Christmas tree lights draped across a High Street. It looked like an army of worker ants but with head torches. Indeed the Sherpas are just like ants taking it in turns to carry vast loads for our comfort and safety ever higher up the mountain.

The Sherpas are paid by a combination of weight (normally no more than 15 kg) and size. I even saw a Sherpa carrying a large propane gas cylinder up. I understand that the going rate is 25 us dollars a carry up to camp two (higher rates apply higher up). Very little by Western standards but a lot by Nepaese standards. To protect their wellbeng they are not meant to carry more than 15 kg but I suspect much like the European Working Time Directive they can opt out. It is not uncommon to see them carrying double loads.

Unlike the porters lower down the valley who are very ill equipped in terms of footwear ( ie plymsoles or flip flops!) and clothing the Sherpas on Everest get a very generous equipment allowance and they are all as well kitted out as us.

The only other thing of note was that one section higher up is just like an upturned box of Lego that has to be the site of an avalanche. Whether it's this year's or last, I don't know. All I can say it's extremely slow to cross!

Tomorrow is a rest day before we head up for our first night at camp one so I thought I'd tell you abut about BC and how it compares with the North side. If you've got any burning questions just post a comment and Henrietta will pass it on. You can ask to remain anonymous if you wish!

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